Breaking the Mold: The Rise of Independent Specialist Retailers in the Swiss Watch Industry

Successful brands depend on their own stores

In recent years, Swiss watch brands have shifted their approach to collaborating with specialist retailers. While once they courted dealers, many now find themselves only receiving orders. However, there are signs of change as the multi-brand boutique concept is not dead. Despite the trend towards opening mono-brand boutiques, some retailers are finding success by providing a unique and curated selection of watches.

Audemars Piguet saw significant growth under CEO François-Henry Ben Nimmias, who transformed the brand from a wholesaler to a retailer, resulting in a substantial increase in sales. This shift in strategy has prompted many other brands like Zenith, Rado, and Breitling to reevaluate their collaboration with specialist retailers. They have focused on creating a more selective network of high-quality partners, reducing the number of dealers they work with.

However, these changes have not been welcomed by all retailers, especially smaller businesses in smaller cities. They feel that their autonomy has been taken away by the strict controls imposed by watch brands. Requirements such as minimum sales, participation in e-commerce, and adherence to brand guidelines have limited their flexibility and creativity in showcasing watches.

Despite these challenges, some retailers are finding success by offering a personalized shopping experience and excellent service. By focusing on building relationships with customers rather than just selling products, retailers like Marco Galli and Dominik Maegli have managed to thrive in the changing landscape of the watch industry. The rise of independent specialist retailers like Maegli’s “Watchthings” store in Bern demonstrates that there is still a place for innovative and customer-centric retail concepts in the world of luxury watches.

In conclusion, while Swiss watch brands may be focusing on creating more selective networks of high-quality partners or opening mono-brand boutiques, there is still room for independent specialist retailers who offer unique and curated selections of watches. Retailers who prioritize building relationships with customers rather than just selling products will be successful in this changing landscape of luxury watches.

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